Q: One problem I am experiencing is that the Nightstriker is not catching on the sear. This is in an AMG. Why is this?
A: The re-cocking point on an AMG when compared with a stock striker is farther back.
Q: What kind of spring setup should I use when setting up the Nightstriker in my Spyder?
A: Start out with the lightest springs in your valve and your mainspring. Back out your velocity control knob till you see the o-ring, tighten knob till the o-ring is just out of sight. Chrono your gun. If you are shooting hot increase your valve spring and chrono again. Keep doing this till you get the right velocity. Don’t use the velocity control knob to adjust the velocity till you are within 5-10 FPS.
Q: I need more instructions on how to tune my Nightstriker.
A:
How I tune any marker with a Nightstriker or stock striker. I tune my marker different than others. I believe that opposing spring pressures are what give peoples markers their kick. Everyone that has shot one of my markers has commented on the lack of kick and lack of ball breakage. Take your time getting your marker to the lowest opposing spring tensions. You will notice the difference. You will still get good efficiency this way. You will need access to a chronograph and a spring kit. Clean and lube your marker. Make sure that your o rings are good. Make sure all parts move freely with no friction or binding. Tighten the velocity adjuster till the o ring just disappears then 2-2.5 more turns. I take the lightest springs possible, for the 32 degree kit it is the 2 black ones. I put them in and chrono the gun to see what I got. I will then turn up the PSI till I get either, 300+ FPS or good recocking during high rates of fire. At this point I can tell whether I need more recock air or ball propulsion air. Depending on the marker set up I will proceed from there.
1- I need more air to the ball (FPS) but it recocks good during rapid fire
2- I need more re cock but my FPS is good
3- I need more of both. I cant re cock and the FPS is not there.
4- My FPS is hot. Still wont recock.
5- It’s shooting awesome I don’t want to change a thing.
1- If you need more air to the ball.- You can turn up your reg. open up your valve and valve stem (home mod). High flowing bolt. Clip 1/8” off valve spring and re chrono. Keep clipping until FPS is achieved.
2- A little different. Depending on valve. Stock- make a flat on opposite side of existing flat. Start small and chrono, remember you will need to compensate for the lost air, turn reg up if needed. Don’t sand/grind to center. It will not allow pin to stay centered. Tap striker exhaust (small hole behind valve locking pin, under grip frame) and cap with short set and make certain that screw doesn’t stickup in striker bore. AKA tornado valve I opened one hole up about .015”. Email me for further information. The rest of the valves to my knowledge are comparable to a modded stock valve. I’m not going to go in to the rocket valve. It has been my experience that if you need more info than the site gives, you should not have a rocket valve. Not to say the rocket valve is not a good valve. It is. When this fails e-mail me.
3- I need both-. Nothing works.- Open up marker. Get all home mods done or get someone to do them. Clip valve spring. 1/8” at a time and re chrono. Get a better reg. up grade internal parts.
4- Same as #2 but you probably wont have to up the pressure.
5- It shoots awesome- don’t change a thing.
If none of this works Email me.
